5 Up-and-Coming Fashion Labels Driving Fashionistas Crazy

Florania

Founded by Flora Rabitti in 2021, Florania is an independent ready-to-wear clothing brand, gender-neutral and seasonless, crafted between Milan and Mantua with a very distinctive philosophy of “solar punk” or punk. Florania’s Fall 2024 collection, “Two Moons,” evokes a surreal and mysterious world, inspired by the stories of Haruki Murakami and Japanese cinema, where enigmatic characters blend with natural and quirky elements. Hand-drawn prints by the designer adorn the garments, which include individually designed coats, patchwork vests stitched together, recycled cashmere knitwear, and denim fabric. The new streetwear fashion items are collaborated with SPAARKD, certified for innovation and made from sustainable materials. Accessories designed by jewelry designer Margherita Potenza include recycled metal details. Fabrics come from Japanese partners like Sakura Collection and Kyocera Corporation, narrating stories of regeneration and transformation. Every garment is made in Italy following a philosophy of sustainable design, with production chains based on Social Ateliers.

Institution

Institution is a new creative project by Galib Gassanoff, a designer from Georgia, who co-founded and co-designed ACT N°1 in 2016 until the SS 2023 fashion show. The brand’s inception is a multi-disciplinary project and will operate as an ethical-based social art organization. The project’s debut took place with a presentation inside the Secci Art Gallery, with clothes hanging on the walls to provide a detailed view of the craftsmanship and structure of the works, most of which are self-made by the designer. Most collections are made from natural fibers such as silk, cotton, wool, and leather. Materials are sourced from the stock and inventory of high-end manufacturers, so the quantity of each item is limited. Hand weaving techniques are sourced from the designer’s community, the Azeris of Georgia, using cotton tie threads instead of traditional wool threads. As this skill is at risk of being lost, the designer plans to support the generational transition process by engaging local women’s communities in creating collections, ensuring their use.

Zomer

Zomer, a name derived from Dutch meaning “summer,” is a Dutch brand founded by Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha, characterized by myriad colors, unexpected textures, and experimental designs, balancing childlike joy with high sophistication. For their second collection, they explore the world of vibrant colors and the combination of 2D and 3D elements. This exploration has led to a product line reflecting the designers’ admiration for expression and artistic design. The brand offers a complete collection of ready-to-wear clothing, focusing on craftsmanship, color, and shape. ECCO Leather provides leather used throughout the entire collection while Knitwearlab supplies jerseys.

Duran Lantink

Based in Amsterdam and Paris, Duran Lantink combines existing materials with low-impact innovative materials, creating increasingly evolving shapes and styles. The Fall 2024 collection, “Duran-ski,” presented at Palais de Tokyo in Paris, is a conceptual explanation of leisurewear for luxurious winter sports enthusiasts. The forms of knitwear and outerwear are maximized, and through collaboration with Knitwear Lab, fibers have been engineered to create jumpsuits with exaggerated shoulders and thigh-high boots inspired by Dutch firefighters’ uniforms from the ’70s. Shapes and cuts from the 1980s are reinterpreted with broad, forward-facing shoulders, contrasted with patchwork coats from recycled ski jackets and discarded sheepskin coats. The brand often experiments with combinations and vintage pieces from Loewe and Margiela to lay the groundwork for new shapes.

Meryll Rogge.

Based in Belgium, Meryll Rogge combines the simplicity of men’s clothing with women’s evening wear, showcasing diverse styles. Femininity is the foundation of the brand, catering to women with a spirit of freedom who support personal affirmation. Meryll Rogge studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and after working for Marc Jacobs in New York and Dries Van Noten in Antwerp, she decided to establish her own brand. In 2021, she received the Belgian Fashion Award as an emerging designer, and the following year, she was nominated for the LVMH Award 2022. Meryll Rogge’s Fall 2024 collection is the brand’s fourth debut and evokes a desire for festivities. Styles combine underground aesthetics with new rhythmic scenes, from floral patterns to sequin-adorned coats and dresses, from sporty items like headscarves to shiny Lurex dresses. The allure of patterns intertwines with the layering of scarves, raincoats, and vinyl dresses. The collection is a continuation of seductive and simpler outfits, with wrinkled floral shirts and knitted sweaters embroidered with diamonds.